Laying floor tiles yourself? With this step-by-step plan, you can do it!

In this blog, you will discover our comprehensive step-by-step plan for laying floor tiles yourself and find out what accessories you need to do so.

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You have bought the perfect tiles and are all set to start tiling your bathroom, living room or toilet. For this, you can either approach a tiler, or choose to do it yourself. In this blog, we will explain what you need to do this. Furthermore, we will give you step-by-step instructions on how to lay tiles. In this article, you will find:

  • 6 ways to lay tiles;
  • Supplies for laying tiles;
  • A detailed step-by-step plan.

6 ways to lay tiles

Laying new tiles is not something you do every day. But if you dare, you can do it yourself. The big advantage is that you will then only have to spend on materials, such astilesand grout.It is obvious to lay tiles neatly in rows, but it is just as fun and original to choose a completely different tile arrangement. This greatly influences the room's atmosphere and gives you the opportunity to give your floor a personal twist.We give you 6 examples of tile bonding for inspiration.

1. Solid stone bond

The simplest tile bond is the full stone bond, where tiles are placed with their sides and corners against each other. This gives an even end result. Each tile has a certain bulge. If you place the tiles right on top of each other, the bulge will be the same everywhere. The moment you place tiles in a different pattern, the bulge is no longer equal and height differences may occur between the tiles. These differences are visually straightened using the tile clips and wedges.

2. Offset

With this method of laying, the first row starts with a whole tile and the second row with a half tile. This way, the end of the tile always ends up in the middle of the tile above and below it. Note! This bond does not give a nice end result for all tiles. If you lay an Offset with wood effect tiles or elongated tiles, the bulge is always uneven. This is particularly noticeable with these types of tiles because they are so long. With wood effect tiles or elongated tiles, we recommend choosing a quarter or wild band.

3. Diagonal pattern

This pattern is not often laid these days, but that is what makes it so original. Diagonal bonding is a playful tile pattern that breaks up straight lines in an interior. All joints cross at 90 degrees. This pattern requires a lot of sawing and approximately 15% cutting loss.

4. Herringbone, twill or block herringbone.

Joints run perpendicular to each other in this bond, creating a zigzag pattern. To make this pattern succeed, our advice is to use long, narrow tiles. This is the type of tile that best shows off the herringbone pattern.Count on a total of about 15% cutting loss with this pattern.

5. Wild dressing

The wild banding is best for rectangular tiles. With this pattern, there is little cutting loss. This is because the remaining part of the tile is used to start the next row of tiles.

6. 1/3 and 1/4 relationship

The name already shows how you lay this bond: the tile is placed at 1/3 or 1/4 of the tile above. This creates a kind of zip. This pattern suits elongated (wood effect) tiles best.

What else do I need?

Once you have the tiles, you will want to start laying them as soon as possible. However, to make this go smoothly, you will also need glue and grout, for example. Add the following seven accessories to your shopping list and get started!

Waterproofing set

A waterproofing kit is especially recommended in the bathroom, especially the shower area. It contains kimband and a coating.Kim tape is used to seal joint corners and joints. In wet areas, for example a tiled walk-in shower, the use of a waterproofing set is necessary. You first apply coating and place the kimband over this before tiling. Then you finish it off with the sealing coating so that the joints are completely watertight.By using this set, you ensure that no moisture gets behind the tiles. This prevents cracking and mould.

Primer

There are two types of primer: for absorbent and non-absorbent substrates. Absorbent substrates include concrete, limestone, concrete and anhydrite floors, cement and gypsum plaster, aerated concrete, gypsum blocks and the like. By priming these materials, you reduce the suction of the substrate. If you do not do this, there is a risk that the moisture in the adhesive will be absorbed too quickly by the substrate. The adhesive then has no time to bond to the substrate and tile. As a result, the tiles may come loose from the floor.

Primer for non-absorbent substrates is suitable for levelled concrete, existing tiles, old adhesive layers, decorative gravel, old adhesive layers and the like.With the primer, you apply a layer to which the adhesive can adhere. It is important to degrease the substrate first. To do this, use tile cleaner, which is explained later in this blog. If you do not treat the substrate, there is a risk that the adhesive will not adhere to the substrate. The tiles will then not adhere properly.

Tile adhesive

To glue floor tiles, use one of the three types of powdered adhesive from our range. The powder comes in bags. You simply make adhesive by adding water to the powder. The correct mixing ratio can be found on the packaging. Exactly which type of adhesive you need depends on the type of tiles you are using.

Standard powder adhesive (grey)

This powder adhesive can be used for allfloor tiles. We do not recommend using this adhesive on the wall as well. This is because it is not strong enough to hold the tiles, so there is a risk of the tiles coming off the wall. Use this adhesive for bath and living room floors, but not for glass mosaic and light-coloured natural stone.Glass mosaic is transparent and natural stone absorbs the colour of the adhesive. If you use grey glue to lay these tiles, the glue will be clearly visible and the tile will lose its appearance.

Power adhesive (grey)

Power adhesive is suitable for both floor andwall tiles. The adhesive has high standing power, which means the tile stays in place better. It is not recommended for mosaic tiles. This is because you can clearly see the grey glue underneath the transparent mosaic, as explained under 'standard powder glue'. This causes the mosaic to lose its appearance.

Quick glue (white)

This adhesive is also used for both floor and wall tiles. The adhesive is ready to joint after only three hours.Very handy if, for example, you want to install and joint a toilet floor in one day. Not only the speed, but also the colour is a reason to choose this adhesive.You will not see the white through natural stone or mosaic. Nor is the colour clearly visible in the joints.

Tile clips and tile wedges

Tile clips and tile wedges are indispensable when laying tiles. They ensure that the tiles are level, that the joint is the same distance apart and that the tiles remain in place during the drying process of the adhesive. Slide the chock into the opening of the clip so that the chock pushes the tiles to the same height. Remove the chocks after the drying time and break off the clips. The chocks can be reused, but the clips will remain under the tiles.After laying, joint the tiles so you won't see any more of the clips.

Grout

When the glue has dried for 24 hours, start jointing the tiles. Grout is available in different colours, so you can choose a shade that suits the floor and your personal preference. The grout colour is generally lighter than the tile colour. For white tiles, we recommend silver-grey joints. White joints will discolour over time, making them look unclean in comparison.Grout is also the first water barrier. It prevents moisture from getting under the tiles.

Tile cleaner

After jointing the tiles, there is often a layer of cement residue on top. Use tile cleaner to remove it. It is important to do this immediately after the joints have hardened. This takes about 24 hours. The longer you wait, the less easily you will remove the cement residue.

Tile sealant

Joint all seams after laying and grouting the tiles. Seams are the connection between wall and floor, wall and ceiling and walls. If you seal these, dirt and moisture cannot get behind them.The sealant captures movement between surfaces to some extent.

Get started! Laying floor tiles in 8 steps

Now that you have both the tiles and all the accessories to hand, it's time to start tiling. If you follow these eight steps, you are guaranteed a beautiful end result.

Step 1: Check the subfloor

Make sure the subfloor is waterproof, especially if you are going to tile a bathroom. In that case, use a waterproofing kit, with kim tape and a coating. Then make sure the subfloor is level when you start tiling. Always level an uneven surface to avoid your new floor looking crooked and unkempt. Is the surface smooth and waterproof? Then clean it with tile cleaner to remove dirt.

Step 2: Choose the right primer

It is important to treat your floor properly with primer, as described earlier in this blog. Will you be tiling over existing tiles? If so, treat the floor with special tile-over-tile primer. This will make the surface rougher so that the glue will adhere better.Before applying the primer, degrease the existing tiling with a degreasing agent.

Step 3: Use tile adhesive

First apply tile adhesive for the first row of tiles. To do so, apply the buttering-floating method in the case of heavy-duty tiling, thin tiles or tiles larger than 40x40 cm.This method involves applying adhesive to the entire underside of the tile as well as to the substrate. The double bonding ensures optimal adhesion of the tile to the substrate. Spread the adhesive evenly with the help of a glue spreader, which is available at various DIY stores. A glue comb is available in different sizes (also called 'glue comb serration'). We use the sizes 8, 10, 12 and 15 mm. The size of the tile determines which size is used. Our advice:

  • For tiles up to and including 30x30 cm: an 8mm glue comb
  • For tiles up to 50x50 cm: a 10 or 12 mm gluing comb
  • For tiles larger than 50x50 cm: a 15mm glue comb

Step 4: Use tile clips and chocks

Slide the chock into the opening of the clip so that the chock pushes the tile to the same height. The clip ensures that the joint is the same distance everywhere.Together, they create a neat end result.

Step 5: Continue tiling

Place the next tile tightly against the clips and chocks of the previous one. Mix tiles from different boxes so that any small colour differences between tiles do not stand out. Cut tiles that will be in the corners or along edges to size with a tile cutter.

Step 6: Joint the tiles

To prevent moisture from getting under the tiles, joint them.Do not do this until the tile adhesive is dry and cured.We recommend allowing all adhesive to harden for 24 hours, except for instant adhesive. This hardens after only three hours.Smooth the grout over the joints. Scratch open the corner joints so that you can seal here later. Let the grout dry until it hardly gives off any more.

Step 7: Remove cement residue

As you have read earlier in this blog, it is important to clean the tiles thoroughly. You only do this once the tiles have been placed and grouted, and once the glue and grout have had enough time to dry. We recommend removing cement residue from the tiles with tile cleaner. Use tile cleaner for other maintenance of your floor as well.

Step 8: Seal the floor

Once your new floor has been laid, grouted and cleaned, finish it off neatly by placing a waterproof sealant layer between the floor and the wall. This way, you will avoid defects and damage caused by moisture.

In conclusion

In this blog, you found out what you need when laying floor tiles. Do you have everything you need? Then use our step-by-step plan and lay your floor yourself. If you have any questions about floor tiles and jointing, our expert sales staff will be happy to help.

Not got all your supplies yet? Then read what to look out for when buying tiles.

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